Grenada to Los Testigos 10th April

The part FINALLY arrived on Saturday morning. Phillip went in to Budget Marine to pick it up and "discuss" the total lack of customer service he had received. The part had been on the island since Monday, and the Manager, Nicholas George, had told us we'd have it by Wednesday. We went in three times on Wednesday to pick it up, and were told each time that it would be ready shortly. Then we were told "tomorrow morning 10 am", so Phillip went in at the appointed time only to find Nicholas setting out for the airport to fetch the part. No problem, P would be back at noon. At noon, no sign of NG or the part. Going in twice more that day, still no luck and even worse, they refuse to monitor the vhf radio so we kept calling and calling them, to save us the trip in, but no reply. Another cruiser heard us and kindly called Budget Marine on his cellphone and was told NG would be back at the store at 4.30 WITH the part. P again went in at 4.30, banged on the door for 15 minutes, no reply. Friday the whole island was closed for Easter, so we knew we were stuck until at least Saturday - but why did NG never contact us? Never once call us on the vhf (we'd told him over and over again we monitor 68 and could he please call us as soon as he had the part). So Saturday P went in to Budget Marine, got the part, and he and NG "got into it" - P told him what terrible customer service - simply the lack of courtesy, not a single call, not a single update, no communication whatsoever, and reminded NG that we, the customers, pay his salary and that without us, they wouldn't be in business so wouldn't it behoove him to provide a little courtesy and customer service? NG went up the wall and more or less kicked P out of the store, and even followed him down to the dinghy dock telling him off and saying "how dare you speak to me like that and how dare you say that you pay my wages" etc. Apparently it was pretty nasty - those of you who know P will know it takes a LOT to get him riled up - he's always calm and unemotional (unlike me), so if he got upset, you know it was a pretty tense situation and well deserved. A lot of anxious cruisers were waiting for his return, knowing the situation and wondering if it had come to blows, some had a few wagers going on I think. Fortunately it didn't but I'm sure a photo of P is plastered to the wall of that store with the words "BANNED FOR LIFE." All we can say is, if you need a part special ordered, DON'T go through Budget Marine. Order it from the US and ship it down.
I must add, in all fairness, when the part first broke, we were in Union and we called Budget Marine in Grenada and spoke to NG there and ordered the part - he was most helpful at that point and immediately got the part shipped to Carriacou where we picked it up (only to find it didn't fit) - but he was very helpful at that point. It was only when we got to Grenada (we obviously had to exchange that part with another one) that things fell apart.

So P fixed the engine with this part and while we had planned to leave first light Sunday morning, we were restless on Saturday night, couldn't sleep, so 11.30 pm we left Grenada and headed for Los Testigos. Ugh. Another night sail. Great moonlight to begin with - it was like sailing in daylight, but after a few hours, the moon went in and it was dark again and very very rolley. The wind was directly behind us, P had to put the pole out which involved him going out in the dark on to a VERY rocking and rolling deck and putting the "pole" out which basically keeps the genoa in place for when the wind is directly behind you. Not an easy job in daylight with 2 people working on it on a still deck, so I don't know how he managed in those circumstances. I couldn't have helped him, it was way too rough and I would have gone overboard in a heartbeat, and I was not a happy camper until P was back in the cockpit with me. But it had to be done or else it would have taken twice as long to get to our destination. Paul and Joyce sailed next to us and we arrived Los Testigos around 3 pm, had a nice quiet evening and next morning checked in with the coastguard (not to be confused with customs).

This is Paul and me chatting on the beach near the coastguard station.

Nice, friendly guards in camo gear greeted us and we filled out the necessary paperwork. We then walked through the tiny village, all just shacks with the barest of essentials but everyone looking happy, and we walked back along the beach. At one point Paul pointed out "Look! A pig in the water!" and we thought he'd finally lost it. Turns out he was right (see below).


The owner said he gets so hot, she brought him down for a swim and a grovel in the sand, which he loved! Great pictures Joyce.


This is South Observation Bay in Los Testigos, where we anchored.
Delphinus and Lady H, side by side. I have to say the water in these photos looks fabulous - much better than it actually was. It was pretty green, but somehow looks lovely and turquoise here.

Below is the tiny island where we went snorkeling (lousy visability and strong current).


After anchoring, Joyce and I went ashore for a walk up the big hill/dune there. I couldn't make it all the way up - I was wearing flipflops that wouldn't stay on my feet and the sand was burning so hot that I couldn't even hotfoot it up to the top of the hill - so I quit after yelping halfway up the dune. We found this little fella on the beach (blue bottles as we South Africans call them) - but Portuguese Man O'War is the more popular term.





Here is a photo Joyce took from the top of the dune.

Again, the water looks fabulous - but in actuality it was green and not nearly as clear as it appeared. Oh well!
We had dinner the following night at a tiny restaurant called The Green House/Casa Verte (I use that word loosely - it was someone's home - the owners serve up either lobster or fish for guests on their veranda), and it was just delightful. The food was superb (our bill for two of us with 3 beers, 1 sprite, 2 lobsters, was just US$26), the view exceptional. In their garden they had goats, chickens, sheep, turkeys, baby chicks, 2 dogs and 5 puppies (1 month old - Joyce and I tried our best to persuade our men to let us have one each, sadly to no avail), and during sunset, the owner came running out with binoculars pointing to the ocean. About 4 miles away was a sperm whale leaping out of the water. I didn't have my camera, fortunately Joyce had hers and took some photos - it was a fantastic sight, leaping out of the water for ages, thrashing around, hitting the water with its fluke.

Fantastic evening and a great sunset.

Would I go back to Los Testigos? Only if we were going that way anyway - it's pretty but the water isn't a patch on Tobago Cays, so the snorkeling is only average at best - so no, I wouldn't make a special trip. But glad to have been. Left for Margarita on Wednesday the 15th. RUM HERE WE COME!