Charleston Tour

We have seen quite a bit of Charleston - it's a nice town. On Monday, our first day here, we were approached by someone who said we should sit in on a time share presentation (yeah yeah yeah, we've all heard about those) - and if we did, we could get up to $100 in cash and/or tour tickets and/or restaurant coupons. So what the heck - for $100 plus a Charleston horse and buggy tour, why not? So we sat through the presentation which was not bad at all - a really friendly and charming woman who was so engrossed in our sailing stories, she almost forgot what we were there for - and after chatting for an hour or so about sailing and traveling and South Africa, she rushed through in half an hour what should have taken 90 minutes - but alas, no sale. Even she could see that with our current lifestyle, we weren't the right candidates for a "vacation club". As we walked out the door with our prizes clutched in our sweaty paws, someone else approached us and said would we like to sit in on a 45 minute travel wholesaler presentation (they stressed that they were NOT time share) ? In return, we could get $75 in cash plus a lunch coupon for $25, so what the heck. And it was great! We went to Hyman's Seafood Restaurant afterwards which had good calamari, but everything else was do deeply fried that P and I felt sick afterwards. I suppose we don't often eat deep fried food and we felt stodgy and lethargic and unhealthy afterwards - so that's the end of fried foods. So on Friday - yes, you've guessed it - another presentation - this time $100 in cash - don't even remember what it's for. But who cares.

We had a lovely Carriage Tour around Charleston this afternoon. Our two new friends, Becky and Marty (Marty's the horse). Becky spoke really fast and with such a thick accent that we only understood 1/3rd of what she was saying - a real shame, because I'm sure it was all very interesting.


What incredible homes!


Some of the homes are quite astonishing.



This reminded me of the African markets we've seen in South Africa and Kenya.


On Monday, I was desperate for a milkshake - we asked a couple of people who said the only place in town was Haagen Dasz - so we went along, had an outrageously overpriced milkshake, served by a semi-rude, disinterested student - only to find out much later on that on Meeting Street, there was a Maggie Moo's - the BEST ice cream and milkshakes around for MILES - and the owner was so fabulous - I fell in love with him at first sight (well, when he offered me numerous tastes of the different flavours) - so everyone - TAKE NOTE: If you're in Charleston and you want an ice cream or a milkshake, AVOID Haagen Dasz and go for Maggie Moos - tell him Jo Jo sent you and he'll give you 10% off everything AND hold an interesting, educated and intelligent conversation with you.

We left on Friday for Beaufort (they pronounce it Boofort), South Carolina

Charleston, South Carolina

Some more photos of the Intracoastal - it varies so much from hour to hour - one minute you're crowded in from both sides with oppressive trees and brush and mangroves - the next you're in the middle of an endless lake, hardly able to see from one side to the other - it's amazing!






CHARLESTON!!!
The circle marks where we are anchored (click on THIS),

after about 9 hours of motoring from where we anchored last night - Mosquitoville as we called it - we were in the middle of nowhere, in a narrow part of the river, with mozzies bombarding us in their hundreds down below. Phillip chased after them and to my amazement, he got rid of every single one. At one point, when I went into our bedroom, with all the mozzies in there it sounded like a choir! So Phillip went in and did his duty. We didn't have a spray, so I just listened for the sound of hand-claps coming from the bedroom. Not one was left. I have never been so pleased to have him around. My hero.

Here he is, the Mosquito Terminator.


Charleston!



We're here!!!

We arrived at 4 pm, wind was howling (up to 25 miles an hour) - dropped anchor, got out the frozen margaritas and beer and humus and crackers and are enjoying happy hour!

Docked for the night, Barefoot River Landings in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

First time I have spent the night on a boat IN a dock! An actual marina! Normally we anchor out, but we had no choice today - the next safe spot to anchor is 5 hours from here and we won't make it in daylight - so here we are, next to restaurants, shops, and entertainment.

http://www.multimap.com/s/yovDNht3

There is supposed to be free high speed wi-fi here, but the only wi-fi I've managed to find is very, very slow. Hence the short blog entry.

Arrived in Cape Fear in huge storm

Heading for Myrtle Beach where we may anchor - if not, we'll continue towards Charleston, South Carolina. We anchored just off Cape Fear River last night - look at the storm we went through! The clouds looks like breakers on a beach. Was pretty wild, but fortunately the lightning was far away. If you click on the photo, it should enlarge and you'll see it in much better detail.




Earlier on saw lots of dolphins!



Here's a brief video of them.




Some random shots of the ICW


Leaving Beaufort, North Carolina - beautiful

Back Street Pub - now THAT'S a book swap!

BEST book swap we've ever seen - at the Back Street Pub in Beaufort, NC. All in alphabetical order by author and then by genre - amazing!!!!!!

Norfolk, VA - Beaufort, North Carolina (20 - 22nd September)

Norfolk, Virginia


Downtown Norfolk Virginia below – the dinghy dock is just outside Nauticus (the museum) and it’s literally two blocks to a fabulous supermarket where they do wonderful wine tasting every Saturday, and two blocks from a big shopping mall. Very well laid out city and a most enjoyable visit.


Shortly after we left Norfolk, we had to go through a lock – the water level drops about 4 feet, so it was all fun and games while I tried in vain to lasso the cleat to tie us to the dock. Phillip had to jump ashore and snag a cleat for me.






Our route has taken us through Norfolk Virginia, down south through the Alligator River and the Alligator River Swing Bridge (after doing a little dredging of our own in a very shallow part of the huge lake-like river, and continued down to the Pungo River Canal, a very narrow, very straight canal that once you enter it, you are committed to going the whole way (about 20 miles) until you get to the other side. It’s too narrow for you to stop in or anchor in, so you must make sure you have plenty of daylight left before entering. We got here at about 2 pm and got through at about 5.30.


Some random shots of the ICW



Here’s baby Em (our boat mascot and major diva) fooling about with the new line we bought for the genoa. She got so tangled up in it and in the end we took pity on her and got her out.


Just incidentally, the other day, when we walked to the Giant supermarket in Annapolis, I noticed this amazing special offer – buy one of these at $1.79, and get two for $4.00. Deal of the century. Naturally I had to point it out to management.


Tuesday 22nd September.
Arrived Beaufort, North Virginia – have done 205 miles since Sunday – doesn’t sound very far if you’re on land but when you’re on a boat, that’s not bad going. Leaving at first light every day (6.30 am ish), motoring for as long as there has been daylight has been worth it. Last night it poured with rain just as we headed for our overnight anchorage in the middle of nowhere, and this afternoon there was a downpour and some lightening but overall, the weather has been fantastic. Here’s tonight’s sunset in the anchorage, which is packed, mostly with what look to be abandoned (or at least empty) boats of all shapes and sizes.


It’s beautiful here, apart from the masses of midges and sbt’s (stinging biting things) that flocked to us around sunset. There is a small island here with wild ponies. Will most likely spend one day here (two nights), then head for Charleston, South Carolina, which is another 200 miles (4 days) as we have a lot of bridges to go through. A lot of them will be on-demand, but some will be set either to the hour or half hour and if you don’t make it, then you have to wait for it to open and queue up with other boats and you lose a lot of time that way.

Norfolk, Virginia down through Coinjock, North Carolina

Anchored just off mile marker 61 of the intracoastal waterway - we're in North Carolina. We did 61 miles today, through a lock, under many bridges - we didn't do the Dismal Swamp, stopped for fuel and water in Coinjock and anchored just before the big openwater area. Click here for the location on multimap.com

Leaving the Chesapeake Bay - in Norfolk, Virginia

We left Annapolis on Tuesday 15th September, spent Tuesday night anchored in the Road River. Wednesday, after 11 hours sailing, overnighted in Cornfield Harbor on the Potomac River - BOY was it windy. All night long, the boat was going up and down as if she was at sea in big waves, it was pretty wild. Must have been winds up to 40 knots. Thursday we left at first light and sailed 13 and a half hours down to Norfolk Virginia, arriving at 8.30 last night. Phillip said it's the first time he's sailed the boat in three months - up until now, there hasn't been enough wind and he's had to motor everywhere - so he was thrilled. I, however, spent the last two days in my cabin feeling a little under the weather because it was really rough out there and I am glad to be done with the Chesapeake Bay for now.

If you're ever in Annapolis, do visit the Rams Head Tavern (great happy hour and free food Monday - Friday between 5 and 7) and Davis's Pub - great hamburgers and the best onion rings we've ever had.

We are now anchored just off Hospital Point (Naval Medical Center) right opposite the USS Wisconsin (docked at Nauticus) - and directly across the river from downtown Norfolk.

This is where we are anchored (click on this link below - if you zoom out you'll get a good idea of where we are in relation to Annapolis and the Chesapeake Bay)

http://www.multimap.com/s/PV8GjDFm

We'll be here until Monday I hope, then we head down the Intracoastal Waterway.

Back in the USA finally!

Gosh, what a long time I was away. Health reasons prevented me coming back on 1st July as originally planned, and after minor surgery, I flew to join Phillip in Baltimore on 8th September. It was wonderful spending so much time with my parents and sister though, just so sad that we're all so far apart.

We are in the Chesapeake Bay now, anchored in Back Creek which is just outside Annapolis. If you look below, we're anchored in the spot in the middle of the red circle.

We had some WONDERFUL times here - lovely dinner on Friday night with our friends Tom and Ronnie at their lakefront house with stunning views, at Fox Creek, also known as Old Place Creek. Great fun - eating, laughing and drinking until about 12.30 in the morning - liberal amounts of Ouzo, wine, beer, Bailey's, Metaxa and of course Rum were imbibed by all.....


We also had a lovely dinner last night at Tom and Shirley's house, just off Chase Creek - also another night of great company, good conversation, and wonderful food and wine. (sorry, forgot my camera, so no photos unfortunately).

We plan to leave tomorrow or Tuesday, heading for Fort Lauderdale. We think it will take about a month, depending on whether we stick to the IntraCoastal or if we jump outside and do any off shore sailing. Our first stop is Norfolk, Virginia, which is about 3 days from here, sailing only during the day and anchoring at night.

Weather has ranged from freezing cold (icy!), raining, windy up to 40 miles an hour, to sunny, dry and warm (today). Cold fronts are starting to move through regularly so it's definitely time to head south. Brrr. Had enough of these long, icy, snowy winters when I was went to Cornell University in upstate New York - not to mention living in Manhattan for 6 years.... not for me any more.